Trip to the Mountain of Death (Mohenjo-daro)


Date: 19 February, 2010 till 21 February 2010

If you want to understand today, you have to search yesterday. ~Pearl Buck

Statue of the Priest-King
Pakistan is a country with rich culture, natural beauty and history. The region of Gilgit-Baltistan, Khabar Paktukwa and Punjab are full of natural beauty and are excellent destinations for those who love natural beauty. Punjab on the other hand is also full of cultural heritage and history with Mughal Architecture including Forts, Gardens, Mosques, Temples, Shrines and monuments. The history of Pakistan includes British Era, the Mughal rule and going back till Taxila, Harappa and Mohenjo-daro. Me and my family mostly travelled to the stations with natural beauty, but we have been to historical places in Lahore like Shahi Qila, to Taj Mahal in India, and Shirins in Multan.

Pakistan Museum

One day in the office where I work, my friends told me that they are planning to visit Mohenjo-daro (The mount of dead man) in Sindh, Province and asked me join them. Since interior Sindh is dangerous place to travel without any local person belonging to that part of Sindh, my friends told me that some friends from interior will also accompany us. This is an excellent opportunity to visit Mohenjo-daro and I decided not to miss this chance. 

This is a one day and two night journey and we selected Friday to begin the journey that will include the Saturday and Sunday. We opt to travel on a train from Karachi to Larkana, Larkana city is situated in the north-west of Sindh and the mighty Indus River flows in the south of Larkana. Larkana city is located within Larkana District, which is renowned for its Indus Valley Civilization site Mohenjo-daro.  

It was Friday when we have to leave for Larkana so we decided to reach the station individually either from our home or from the office. We all reach the station on time and the train was already at the platform. We all ride up on the train with our bags, each of us were carrying a single bag with some travelling essentials. Pakistani trains consist of three classes the AC Sleeper Class, the AC Business Class and the Economy Class, since Larkana is small city therefore very few trains with AC Classes travel to Larkana and because of booking on such urgent basis we were ineffective to find seats in AC Class so we resolved to travel in Economy Class.

Cantonment Station, Karachi
Train at Platform
There were 10 of us and we have seats and berths in two compartments, we placed our luggage and settled ourselves in the allotted seats. The train left the Karachi Cant. Station and with this our journey to the Mohanjo-daro also started. The train travels a few miles into the city before leaving the metropolis, we all were excited and talking about our program for tomorrow. For some friends it was their first journey by train and for me it is my maiden trip to Larkana.

As we leave Karachi there was barren land and desert on both sides of the track, but as we are getting near to Hyderabad, the land started turning into green fields.  The train stops at Hyderabad station and we all grab a cup of tea from the station. Later on a gap of 10 minutes our journey to Larkana again started.


The train was contentiously running toward its destination except for stopping at some designated stations for twosome of minutes. It was dark now and we plan to have dinner, which we all have brought from our homes. Because of late booking we have been unable to get tickets in one compartment, therefore we have to split our group in two and sit in the designated compartments, but we were in continuous contact with each other.

After eating up our dinner and cold drink, we decided to have some sleep so that we will be refreshed in the morning and be able to enjoy our trip. Since we have limited berths available so we have to share these berths with each other, but we easily manage to share and sleep very comfortably. 


We all wake up very early in the morning and it was a stunning view outside, as the twilight started to appear in the sky and the field and plantations were creating a breathtaking scene. With the pollution free air we were travelling to the Larkana City, a very popular city of Pakistan because of its political influence.


At about 6:00 AM we reached Larkana railway station, this is the final point of the train. We all picked up our bags and climbed down the train, this is a small station and it was totally empty as there was no other trains scheduled at that time except of the train by which we arrive. It was my first visit to Larkana and for many of our team members as well, but for our friends who have already lived here some years back this is not a new place. So we accompanied them to the nearby restaurant, as we need to freshen up and are hungry for the breakfast. It was a decent restaurant with neat and clean washrooms and tidy dining area, the staff at the restaurant immediately provided us soap and towels. After cleaning up we all assemble in the dining hall and waited for our breakfast. While we were waiting for the breakfast we roamed about the hallway and look at the city from the window, since we are on the first floor the large area of the surrounding is clearly visible. This is the commercial area of the city with shops along both sides of the road, not only there are local eateries along this road, but there are also some international brands, the city was still asleep except for some small eating place along the road getting ready to unfold. 


After a while, our breakfast was served and we all sit at the dining table for the breakfast. While when we were having breakfast, our friends from the Larkana with whom we have to go to Mohenjo-daro also arrived. Finishing our breakfast we went down on the road and in a few minutes the coast by which we have to travel to Mohenjo-daro arrived and we all ride on the coater.
Mohenjo-daro is nearly 28KM from Larkana city and it takes about an hour to reach there, but our driver told us that it will take more time, then the regular as the road to Mohenjo-daro is under-construction. It was a very comfortable coaster and our journey commenced, before getting on the highway our coaster travel within the Larkana city and this allow us to tour most part of the city. Since the road is under-construction the ride was very bumpy, but because of little villages and green plantations and farms on both sides of the main road we were loving the journey. 


A few kilometers before Mohenjo-daro we stop at Cadet College Larkana to drop one of our friend, as he has to collect his degree from there and we carried on our journey toward Mohenjo-daro. After travelling for 15 more minutes we reached the Mohenjo-daro entrance. Nearby Mohenjo-daro is an airport that is visible from the Mohenjo-daro entrance, this airport is seldom used with a really limited number of flights.  After paying a nominal fee at the entrance, we enter the Mohenjo-daro area and leaped out of our coaster. Now we have started walking toward the Mohenjo-daro archaeological site, after walking few steps we saw an old car parked inside a garage, this car does not belong to the residents of Mohenjo-daro but to Mr. R. D. Banerji, an officer of the Archaeological Survey of India, the person who discovered Mohenjo-daro.



Mr. R. D. Banerji's Car
Mr. R. D. Banerji's Car
Flourished between 2,500 till 1,500 BC, Mohenjo-daro is one of the largest settlements of the ancient Indus Valley civilization, in the province of Sindh, Pakistan. Exists in the same period of time as the civilizations of ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Minoan Crete, and Norte Chico. Rich in customs, art, religion and administrative abilities and with remarkably sophisticated civil engineering and urban planning. 

After capturing some pictures we started walking toward the archaeological area of Mohenjo-daro, this area is protected in a walled area, build by Government of Pakistan. There’s a gate built at the entrance and placed immediately after the entrance is a large size copy of the statue of the Priest-King, the original statue was found from this site during an expedition, below the statue there is also some script written in the language spoken at that time. 

Mohenjo-daro Entrance

Statue of the Priest-King
Statue of the Priest-King
Walking a little we were at the archaeological ruins of Mohenjo-daro, Mohenjo-daro covers an area of 240 hectares, of which only about one third has been excavated and is the most well planned city of its time. Having numbers of public baths, a college of priests, an elaborate drainage system, wells, soak pits for disposal of sewage, and a large granary, bears testimony that it was a metropolis of great importance, enjoying a well-organized civic, economic, social and cultural system.

In front of us is the ruins of the most fascinating city made of burnt bricks and mud. We walked in the lanes of the city reading sign boards placed there giving the information about different parts of the city. There is a large well in the central market, with other small wells in the vicinity from where groups of households obtained their water. Along the major streets lined the covered drains to channel the waste water.

Archaeological ruins of Mohenjo-daro 
Archaeological ruins of Mohenjo-daro
Archaeological ruins of Mohenjo-daro
Archaeological ruins of Mohenjo-daro
Archaeological ruins of Mohenjo-daro
In the center of the Mohenjo-daro is a large tank. The tank popularly known as “The Great Bath” was apparently used for rituals purposes by the inhabitants of Mohenjo-daro. It measures about 39 x 23 feet. Its floor is approached by the flight of steps on either end. Near the south cornet is an outlet for the water disposal. Through high drain with corbelled arch in a room on the east of the western verandah is a double ring well to feed the bath to keep the tank water tight.

The Great Bath
The Great Bath
The city comprises of two zones, the lower city which is spread out on the banks of river Indus and a citadel area consisting of Buddhist Stupa. There’s also a stupa that was built on a mound with unbaked brick over the ruins of Mohenjo-daro in the 2nd century AD.  After visiting the lower city area we climbed up to the mound to view the Stupa, capturing some photographs and observing the city we return back toward the main entrance of the Mohenjo-daro. 


Buddhist Stupa


Buddhist Stupa
Buddhist Stupa
On the left side is another section of Mohenjo-daro known as DK-Area. This northeastern sector of Mohenjo-daro was excavated by K. N. Dikshit hence named after him as DK or Dikshit area. Pathways allow visitors to visit the excavations, and an unexcavated portion of the site in the right foreground show what the site looked like prior to excavation. The large levee in the background protects the site from the encroaching floods of the Indus River. Roaming around in the DK area we return back toward the main entrance.




Straight off we walked toward the Mohenjo-daro Museum. Along the way to the museum is the copy of the famous Dancing Girl, the actual statue of the Dancing Girl is 10.5 cms (4.1 in) high and approximately 4,500 years old and is housed in a museum in India. Thither is a nominal fee for the entry of the Mohenjo-daro museum, paying the fee we enter the museum. The museum comprises of two floors the ground base is planned to host large objects and on the first floor are galleries for the display cases in which small relics are displayed. Weapons, engraved seals, kitchen utensils, sculptures and terracotta toys are all put up in these show windows, on that point are also Jewelry and other ornaments displayed in these display cases.

Mohenjo-daro Museum
Mohenjo-daro Museum

Mohenjo-daro Museum
Mohenjo-daro Museum
Mohenjo-daro Museum




Mohenjo-daro Museum
Mohenjo-daro Museum


Mohenjo-daro Museum
Completing a round of the museum and capturing some photographs we return downstairs. Near the Museum is a canteen from where we had some snacks and beverages before returning back to our van. 


Mohenjo-daro canteen and sitting area

Mohenjo-daro Museum Entrance
Now our return journey toward the Larkana city start on the same route by which we came to Mohenjo-daro. Since it was after midday we held our lunch at a restaurant in Larkana city, it was a nice restaurant and the food was savor too. Our train back to Karachi is at 7:00 PM and we have lots of time in our hand. So we mutually agree to visit “Garhi Khuda Bakhsh”.  Garhi Khuda Bakhsh near Naudero is a small village and is notable for containing the family graveyard of the Bhutto family and for being the burial place of Zulfiqar Ali Butto, Murtaza Bhutto, and Benazir Bhutto.

Driving back on the van our journey toward Garhi Khuda Baksh started, the road to Naudero is exactly in the diametrical direction of the road for Mohanjo Daro, and then we were able to discover more areas of Larkana. After leaving the city the green plains and vegetation started on both sides of the road. Travelling for nearly an hour and crossing Naudero we reached the Garhi Khuda Baksh. Garhi Khuda Baksh is a small village with many small houses and one has to cross the village to reach the graveyard. At that place were many street vendors selling flower pastels and agar-batti to be reposed in the grave, same are selling photographs of Butto’s Family and other souvenir belonging to the Sindh culture.


Garhi Khuda Baksh




Visiting the graveyard and roaming the area for about an hour we return back to Larkana, since the road was under construction it took almost one hour to reach back to Larkana.  We directly went to Larkana Railway station, there we have to wait for our train that was schedule for 7 in the evening.  But this comes out to be a really long waiting as at 7 o’clock we came to know from the Railway inquiry office that our train is late and will reach Larkana station till 9:00. 

During this time we decided to have dinner and everyone selects different places for the dinner and I went to a nearby local restaurant for the dinner. Our hold-up did not ended at 9:00 as we were informed by the railway staff that our train is still delay and we have to wait more. As the time passes by we noticed that all the offices of the railway station is closed and now there is no railway officer or any staff at the station, they even closed the doors of the station and we were the only passengers on the platform waiting for our train. Our waiting gets longer and longer and at nearly 12:00 at night we saw a light slowly moving toward our station on the tracks and we come to know that our train heading for Karachi has arrived. 

The train stop by the platform and we climbed up the train but we were surprised to find out that our seats are already occupied by the illegal travelers. Since we are in a group and holds legal tickets so we were able to take hold of our seats after a little discourse. We were so tired that as shortly as we adjust our luggage and lie down we fell asleep.


We all wake up in the morning by the rays of the sun after a comfortable sleep. We all brush and washed ourselves at Hyderabad station and had some light breakfast. After travelling nearly for 2 hours from Hyderabad we reach back to Karachi after such an historic journey, with the memories of 1500 BC. 



“Study the past if you would define the future.” ― Confucius

VIDEO:
Archaeological site of Mohenjo-daro

Mohenjo-daro Museum

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